ArtsEtc contributing editor Racquel Griffith (first from the right) and friends exploring the rich experiences Chinese culture has to offer earlier this year.
“CHINA IS A LONG WAY from home.” I’ve heard this so many times over the past three years with every transit back and forth, it’s felt a little truer each time. What makes a young woman uproot herself from the comforts of her small island into the world’s most populous country? I did it for two reasons: 1) the pursuit of a great scholarship opportunity, and 2) the experience of a culture that would challenge and expand my ways of thinking. China was nothing like Barbados and yet nothing quite like I had imagined it to be.
I had several cities in China to choose from but fell in love with a city called Hangzhou (an hour by train from Shanghai). The truth is, as much as I wanted a different environment, I found that I was drawn to things in that city that reminded me of home.
Like Barbados, Hangzhou is a popular tourist destination. In true Barbadian fashion, I always feel drawn to places with water, and Hangzhou is home to one of the most beautiful lakes in China. If I couldn’t have an amazing beach, I was about to get the next best thing: West Lake has been romanticized and celebrated by poets and artists for its natural beauty and rich history. Reading about West Lake had me sold long before I stepped foot on its shores, and it has gone on to be my favourite place in the country, holding some of my fondest memories and prompting some of my clearest poetry.
When I say China was nothing like I expected it to be, I mean in every way—starting with the food. The food we get outside of China and think of as Chinese food is really nothing like the food there. I finally understand why Chinese people in Chinese restaurants (outside of China) are often seen with dishes that are not on the menu. I’d probably do the same if I go to a Chinese restaurant now, asking, “Where’s the really good stuff?” To be honest, initially, it took awhile for my Bajan palate to adjust to the “odd-tasting” food. Somewhere toward the end of my first year there, I couldn’t get enough of it! Right now, I miss Chinese barbecues, and I’d do anything to get my hands on a milk tea.
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I thought China would be a concrete jungle, too. As much as it is full of some of the tallest buildings I’ve seen, it is also full of greenery, parks and scenic spots. More importantly to me, it felt safe. From what I witnessed, the security of the country is strong, crime is low, and the people generally obey to the laws. As ironic as this may sound, in a country that is restrictive in many ways, I’d never felt freer or safer anywhere else, and safety in a new country is always a welcomed element.
My greatest difficulty wasn’t dealing with any security issues; it was not being able to immerse myself in the culture as much as I wanted to because of the language barrier. Contrary to my initial belief, there weren’t a significant amount of good English speakers in China (not that I’d encountered), and my university courses didn’t include in-depth Chinese language courses. The Chinese I know I had to learn on my own. Imagine how hard communicating was in the beginning! Finding an English speaker when you really needed one felt like finding a unicorn sometimes. Communication was hard. Although it got easier over the course of my time there, navigating Chinese daily life never felt easy.
People were generally kind and some eager to help. I can count a good few friendships with locals that I will always value. Still, there was always this feeling of never belonging. I was a foreigner: I was reminded of it by people every day, verbally or with their stares or soft whispers.
From conversations with other visitors and travellers over the years, I have concluded that most foreigners have the same feeling: it wasn't possible to feel integrated when we physically looked different from the locals. It didn’t matter how well you spoke the language or how many Chinese friends you had. You were a foreigner and usually referred to as such. Most of the time, I felt very aware of my “difference,” from my skin colour to my hair and shape. I was always conscious of what I represented, and for them that was usually Africa. So I represented Africa as best as I could.
I was aware of my relative freedom and the power of choice it brought. I could have focused on all the challenges I faced, whether the language barrier, the pollution, the lack of most social media apps, the difference in university life or daily life to Barbados…or I could embrace the richness of China’s culture and landscape. So I went out and found all the pieces of art I could find in popular and unpopular places. I listened to singers in the park; I went to photography shows, art shows, dances, dramas—to areas where locals play board games like mahjong, to the markets, to schools, to the coolest architectural spots. I explored as much as I could. These experiences brought me much growth, knowledge, and the most amazing group of friends.
It was not easy deciding whether to stay in China or come back home. I tossed it around in my head for almost a year and chose to be home for a while. I’ve been re-embracing island life. China will always be an essential part of me, but for now, there is no prying me away from my little rock any time soon.
